¡Una Porción para Todos!

Long time reader, Fred in Baires, sent me a link to a tremendous article in today's NYT regarding Buenos Aires' special designation for bars and cafés most important to the city's famous character. The very best book on the subject is this one from Gabriela Kogan.

The article put me in mind of a book published by the city detailing the pizzerías that are worthy of being considered part of the national patrimony. An updated version was published last year.

¡Pizza! True lovers of pizza will find themselves close to nirvana in this town of more than 3000 joints known for their pie. And with recession-mentality becoming fashionable, it's time for me to dust-off my Pizza Map toward the many delights to be had in a good pizza safari ...for very few bucks. If you have an opinion (or two, or three) as to the best pizza in Buenos Aires Argentina, navegate your way thru our conveniently clickable map and please leave a comment!

The city's book, Pizzerías, is a gem. Even if you don't read Spanish you'll get all the names and addresses and phone numbers that will direct you to 43 of the best in town.

Being in alphabetical order by barrio, Almagro pops to the top. Long-time readers know my affection for that part of town and, lo and behold, my first love among the pizzas of Buenos Aires is #1 on the list: Tuñin.

Tuñin's roots go back to La Boca where the first pizza ever sold was dispensed by a good Genovese standing on a street corner behind what resembled a folding barstool. The article alludes to the neighborhood rivalry with the tremendous El Banchero (without mentioning names) by describing the sign inside the original Tuñin that claimed "¡Ojo! ¡El Rey de la Pizza!"

Here's a translation of the Tuñin article (lemme tell ya, their pizza is great!):

"The May 1931 issue of Aconcagua Magazine turned its attention to the Pizzería Tuñin saying, "in its dominions of La Boca, Tuñin, the king of fainá, exhibits to the pedestrian gluttony its already classic product." The article showed a photo of the interior of the shop with a hand painted sign with the following legend: "The Old-Fashioned Neapolitan Pizzaiuolo. Try the delicious Neapolitan Pizza. Take note: The King of Pizza!"

Tuñin's fame transcended La Boca and because of that opened some branches in other neighborhoods.

In 1941, Don Alfredo Specos opened "Tunin de la Boca" at Rivadavia 3902 at the corner of Castro Barros catacorner from a classic of the neighborhood and throughout the city, the confitería Las Violetas.

Presently, this is the only remaining Tunin. Its current owners have been in charge of the premises since 1955.

This pizzería in the neighborhood of Almagro figures prominently in the youthful memories of many students of the School of Ceramics and the Mariano Moreno National College, who through so many years formed part of their clientele. As well, the Colegio Pio IX whose 1967 graduating class expressed their gratitude to Tuñin for being a meeting place for over thirty years by issuing the pizzería its own diploma.

The comfortable locale has a handpainted molding by fileteado artist Luis Zorz that runs its entire perimeter. Over the entrance is a the emblem of San Lorenzo de Almagro by the same artist. A generally warm, friendly, and welcoming decor for a growing clientele.

Specifically in the field of pizza, José Luis Estévez, one of its owners, recommends among other specialties, the classic muzzarella with olives, accompanied by fainá; the Neapolitan (muzzarella, fresh sliced tomato, ham, olives and sweet peppers); and the cheese fugazza or La Española (muzzarella, red sausage slices, sweet peppers and olives).

Castro Barros, crossing Rivadavia, becomes Medrano. Almagro shows its pride in this exquisite corner."