Well, my missus and I were there last night. Don't take my word for it; it is truly tremendous.
Personally, I went back for the ceviche. The roast duck bedded on a spicy rice criollo was nothing less than superb. Every appetizer I've tried has pleased and even fascinated ...and everything seems to be a few notches on the picante scale above anything marketed to we porteños. Nothing brutal, mind you, just refreshingly picante.
Refreshing and nuanced. Everything. Sandra Bao and I had some fun trying to pick out notes of more spices than our palates could possibly discern. The harmony of what is obviously a deft touch in the kitchen keeps you guessing with every bite ...and finally, you just give up and enjoy. You settle back and let the master take you for his ride.
Portions are generous; you won't have any problems sharing. That's a good thing... if you're tryin' to share the ceviche clasico peruano wit' da Yanq. I eat ceviche anytime I suspect it will be good. I don't want to go so far as to call myself a connoisseur ...but greatness don't excape me, if you know what I mean.
The fish in Sipan's is supremely fresh and perfect for ceviche, light white fish that can accept the marinade concocted with magic. The clasico is served with nothing more than some tiny fresh corn-nuts so delicate that my darling dinner companion, the lovely and talented 99, at first mistook them for pignoli.
On last night's visit, I decided to avail myself of even MORE refreshment: that famous Peruvian cocktail, the Pisco Sour. I hadn't tried it on my first visit but, after my first one last night, I drank deeply.
Some will try to dissuade you of the eminent Peruvian-ness of that classic drink ...don't believe them. I know Pisco Sours as well as I know good ceviche ...kind of a hobby of mine!
wikipedia.com isn't usually noted for its hilarity but its entry for Pisco Sour is worth a peek:
Like Sipan's ceviches, their Pisco Sours are among the very best ...if not the very best. The skill and care in its preparation is perfect as a compliment to their dishes and just as surprisingly wonderful and nuanced.
The famous American chef Anthony Bourdain filmed an episode for the Travel Channel program Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations in Chile, and during the episode expressed his disgust for the Chilean version of the Pisco Sour. Jorge López, the episode's Chilean producer and travel partner of Bourdain in Chile, explains that chef Bourdain found the Pisco Sour he had in the Valparaiso restaurant "La Playa" as boring and not worth it. Lopez adds that chef Bourdain had just recently arrived from Peru where he had drank and enjoyed several Pisco Sours which he thought were better tasting than the Chilean version. A critic counters that chef Bourdain's visit is a double edged sword because he's a celebrity that generalizes the quality of a country's food by only tasting in a few places.[14] In November 17, 2009, Adal Ramones, a Mexican television show host and comedian, made a reference to the Pisco Sour when he expressed his opinion in regards to the 2009 Chile-Peru espionage scandal: "What do the Chileans want to spy from Peru? How to make a good Pisco Sour?"[15]
After my first, I went immediately to the barman to express my thanks and admiration. His boss informed me that "50% of the quality comes from the hand of the barman and that most of the rest comes from the quality of the Pisco that we use." The angostura bitters show as three pretty ruby dots on the white foam above all that lovely green potion ...giving you the option of stirring them in, enjoying at the last sip, or easily leaving them lonely in the bottom of the glass. Sorry to wax poetic ...but a great Pisco Sour is harder to find than even great ceviche.
He didn't send over any freebies ...but he did allow me to push the legendary rule regarding that fine concoction, "anyone can have one, usually two ...but a third only with permission."
1 comment:
The "piqueo" of octopus and avocado was also great. Excellent cuisine!
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